深海:用广告体恤衫维权: “救命,我们快死了”(Slogan T-shirts as a powerful political tool: 'Help Us We Are Dying')

Carmen Yulín Cruz, the mayor of San Juan, Puerto Rico, wore a T-shirt that read, “Help Us We Are Dying” on CNN. (Photo: CNN)

在 CNN 上,波多黎各圣胡安市长卡门 Yulín 克鲁兹,穿着印有,"救命,我们快死了"。(CNN画面)

 

When Carmen Yulín Cruz, the mayor of San Juan, Puerto Rico, went on CNN Friday night, she wore a black T-shirt with white writing. In all caps, her T-shirt read, “Help Us We Are Dying.”

波多黎各圣胡安市长卡门 Yulín 克鲁兹,在CNN的《星期五之夜》节目上,穿着黑色印有白色的文字的T恤衫。她的 t 恤上用大写字母写着,"救命,我们快死了。

Her shirt was a direct rebuke to acting Homeland Security Secretary Elaine Duke, who called the government’s response to the Hurricane Maria aftermath in Puerto Rico a “good news story.” To that, Cruz said Friday morning on CNN, “When you’re drinking from a creek, it’s not a good news story. When you don’t have food for a baby, it’s not a good news story. Dammit, this is not a good news story. This is a people-are-dying story.”

她的体恤衫是对代理国土安全部部长伊莱恩公爵的直接谴责,该部长称政府应对波多黎各玛丽亚飓风的效果是个"好消息"。对此,克鲁兹星期五早上在上 CNN说,"喝溪流里的水并非好消息。婴儿没有食物不是好消息。妈的,这根本不是个好消息。这是要死人的消息。

The shirt she wore later in the day served to reiterate that point; it was a powerful way of reclaiming her narrative: “Help us, we are dying.”

接下来的一天时间里,她通过穿那件体恤衫重申这一点;这是她重申"救命,我们快死了"的有效方式。

Speaking with @andersoncooper, San Juan mayor is wearing a T-shirt that says “HELP US, WE ARE DYING” pic.twitter.com/qcKTTCANdP

— Brian Stelter (@brianstelter) September 30, 2017

In the interview on CNN, Cruz re-emphasized the message on her shirt, “I will do what I never thought I was going to do,” she said. “I am begging, begging anyone who can hear us to save us from dying. If anybody out there is listening to us, we are dying, and you are killing us with the inefficiency.” With her voice being repeatedly blocked out and spoken, over she made herself heard.

 

在 CNN 的采访中,克鲁兹再次强调她的衬衫上的消息“将做我本没被打算做的,”她说。“我乞求,乞求任何能听到我们并将要拯救我们脱离死亡的人。如果有谁在倾听我们的话,我们要死了,你们在用效率低下杀死我们。”她时断时续地大声说着。

Reality star Bethenny Frankel, who chartered a plane to Puerto Rico filled with supplies, also wore a T-shirt that spoke her mind. It read: #thisisacrisis.

现实明星 Bethenny Frankel,租用了一架装满物资的飞机前往波多黎各,也穿着一件体恤衫,那件体恤衫说出了她的想法。上面写着: #这是一场灾难。

 

She wore the same T-shirt in Mexico after the devastating earthquake.

 在墨西哥,破坏性地震发生后,她穿着同样的体恤衫。

And also in Texas after Hurricane Harvey.

在得克萨斯州的哈维飓风后也是如此。

The proceeds from the shirt — which is made by B Strong, a joint venture between Frankel and the not-for-profit organization Dress for Success — go entirely to women who are victims of these disasters.

这件衬衫的收益 — — 由B Strong生产,弗兰克和非盈利组织Dress for Success之间的合资企业 — — 完全给了那些在这些灾害中受害者的妇女。

Slogan T-shirts are a powerful political tool. They instantly say something that the wearer wants to convey, and in the Instagram-obsessed world, they provide messages that are easily shared, reposted, understood. They are often simple, using a solid background with letters in bold contrasting colors. Easy to read. Easy to see. Easy to understand.

广告体恤衫是强有力的维权工具。他们立刻说点什么,穿着者想要表达,和在痴迷于 Instagram 的世界里,他们提供的消息被轻松地分享、 转发、 理解。他们往往比较简单,使用纯色背景与大胆对比色的字母组合。易于阅读。容易看到。容易理解。

These types of T-shirts first became popular in the ’80s when designers such as Katharine Hamnett and Vivienne Westwood emblazoned high-fashion tees with messages. While meeting with then-British Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher, Hamnett famously wore a slogan T-shirt that read, “58% Don’t Want Pershing” (a protest of a proposed missile site in the U.K.). “That T-shirt gave me a voice,” Hamnett told the Guardian in 2009.

这些类型的体恤衫首次流行 80 年代,当时,设计师们,例如,凯瑟琳哈玛尼特和薇薇恩 · 韦斯特伍德,他们以图文消息装饰高级时装。在会见当时的英国首相玛格丽特 · 撒切尔时,哈玛尼特身穿广告体恤衫,上面写着"58%不想潘兴"(在英国的拟议建立的导弹网站抗议)。"那t 恤传递我了一种声音,"哈玛尼特告诉2009 年《卫报 》。

Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher greets fashion designer Katharine Hamnett, wearing a T-shirt with a nuclear missile protest message, at 10 Downing Street, where she hosted a reception for British Fashion Week designers. (Photo: PA Images via Getty Images)

玛格丽特 · 撒切尔首相在唐宁街 10 号迎接时装设计师凯瑟琳哈玛尼特,哈玛尼特穿着一件印有抗议核导弹信息的体恤衫,在那里,她接待英国时装周的设计师门。(照片: PA 盖蒂图片社图像)

In the last year or so, as global political frustrations have risen, slogan T-shirts have become massively popular again. Nigerian writer Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie’s words are emblazoned across Christian Dior T-shirts that read, “We Should All Be Feminists.” Christian Siriano makes shirts that read, “People Are People.” And Prabal Gurung filled his Fall 2017 fashion show finale with T-shirt clad models, their slogans reading, “Yes, We Should All Be Feminists (Thank You, Chimamanda and Maria),” “Revolution Has No Borders,” “I Am an Immigrant,” and “The Future Is Female.”

在过去一年左右的时间里,由于全球政治挫折上涨,广告T恤衫已经再次大规模流行起来。尼日利亚作家阿迪恩戈齐契所说的 “我们都应该成为女权主义者”已经被印到了整个基督教迪奥恤衫上。基督教 Siriano 制作出了印有"人就是人"字样的体恤衫。高隆的2017年秋季时装表演以身着印有不同口号的体恤衫作为压轴,这些口号有:“是的,我们应该都成为女权主义者 (谢谢你、 阿迪和玛丽亚)”,“革命无国界”,“我是一名移民” ,和“未来属于女性”。

A model walks the runway for the Prabal Gurung collection during New York Fashion Week: The Shows at Gallery 1, Skylight Clarkson Square, Feb. 12, 2017, in New York City.

在纽约时装周期间,一个模特走的普拉巴尔·古隆展的大道上:2017 年 2 月 12 日纽约天光克拉克森广场第一画廊的表演。

NBA players made waves in 2014 when entire teams did pregame warm-ups in T-shirts reading “I Can’t Breathe.” The slogan referenced the last words spoken by Eric Garner before he died due to a chokehold administered by the police officer arresting him.

NBA 球员在 2014 年时曾经激起波澜,整个团队在赛热身中 身穿印有"我不能呼吸"体恤衫。这个口号出自埃里克 · 加纳,这是他临死前被警察掐脖子逮捕时所说的遗言。

Kobe Bryant wears an “I Can’t Breathe” T-shirt to protest the death of Eric Garner at a basketball game between the Sacramento Kings and the Los Angeles Lakers at Staples Center, Dec. 9, 2014, in Los Angeles. (Photo: Noel Vasquez/GC Images)

2014 年 12 月 9 日,在美国洛杉矶斯台普斯中心,一场萨克拉门托国王队和洛杉矶湖人队篮球比赛之间,科比 · 布莱恩特穿着"我不能呼吸"体恤衫,抗议埃里克 · 加纳之死亡。(照片: 诺埃尔 · 巴斯克斯/GC 图像)

Slogan T-shirts have power — they can show allegiance, drum up support, and raise awareness. In the case of Frankel’s shirt, they can be used to raise money and to help those in need. And in the case of San Juan’s mayor Cruz, they can serve as a powerful political tool and an instant form of expression.

广告体恤衫有力量 — — 他们可以表明效忠,争取支持,并提高认识。在弗兰克的衬衫,他们可以用来筹集资金,帮助那些需要帮助的人。在圣胡安的市长克鲁兹,它们可以作为一个强大的政治工具和一种即时的表达形式。

While the federal government tried to downplay the crisis in Puerto Rico, Cruz wore it emblazoned across her chest. If her spoken words were getting lost or twisted in the politics and media din, Cruz made sure that she got to say what she needed to say. Saying it with a T-shirt finally helped her to get heard.

联邦政府试图淡化波多黎各危机,克鲁兹就穿上胸部印有口号的体恤衫。如果她的话被淹没或扭曲在政治和媒体的喧嚣之中,克鲁兹确信,她仍然可以说出她需要说的。用一件体恤衫,帮她让人们听到他们的声音。

 

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